5inyoureye.henna
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I have two Guides available. The first is this Beginner's Guide, which is very basic and answers the most common questions about henna and henna art. Both are, I hope, easy to understand and should have you happily hennaing within the hour. Any comments, questions et cetera, may be directed to txilar [@] gmail [dot] com and I will gladly answer any question you have--relating to henna of course!

    Beginner's Guide to Henna

What is Henna?
How does Henna work?
Is Henna really a temporary tattoo?
What does Henna look like?
Is Henna safe?
Where do I get Henna?
How do I use Henna?
Does Henna work on dark skinned people?
Is there such a thing as Black Henna?
 

What is Henna?

Henna is a plant.

I figure you know this, but to clarify, Henna (also known as Lawsonia alba or Lawsonia inermis) is actually a small shrub in the family Lythraceae. It has pretty little white flowers that are used to make perfume. It is grown in many areas, including Africa (primarily the north, west and east), The Middle East (countries like Egypt and Syria), The Far East (countries like Iran and the ~istan countries), Southeast Asia (countries like India) and the South Pacific (countries like The Phillipines and Singapore). For details, see Botanical.com.

This very detailed definition comes from the Encyclopaedia of the Orient:

"[Arabic: hinnâ'] Henna is a cosmetic paste that is solely used for decoration, and is not connected to any health advantages. Henna comes from the leaves of the plant with the same name. These are crushed into a green powder, that is being sold in suqs all over the Arab world. To this powder, water is added, so that it becomes a dough that is put to the body. After leaving the dough on the body for some time, up to 2 hours, a deep orange colour is left on the skin that will slowly fade away over a period of 2- 3 weeks. The henna is often arranged to intricate patterns, and it is the hands or the feet that are decorated. Henna is used almost only by women, and is in our days used by women that are in the age where beautifying is natural — young women that are ready to get married, or women that have a romantic relationship with their husbands. Henna is considered very sensual by both men and women, even if the henna is applied to the parts of the body that are exposed in public. This also applies to married women. Henna is also used for dying hair, but is seldom used for colouring other items, like clothes."

If you're still not sure what henna is try this brief introduction to the Lythraceae family of plants.

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How does Henna work?

Henna temporarily stains the upper layer of the skin.

Henna stains the uppermost layer of the skin section called the epidermis. Without getting terribly technical, the visible layer of our skin is called the stratum corneum. The cells in this section are dead skin cells full of keratin. Keratin is the key substance for henna artists- this is what the henna will stain. It is important to know that this layer of skin is constantly working. It protects the lower layer of skin (the dermis) and is in a continual cycle of growth, exfoliation and renewal. We don't really ever see this process- not until you apply henna anyhow! As the dead skin cells are removed (by manual and natural exfoliation) new skin replaces that which is lost. The new skin growth has no henna stain. Those aren't the cells that were stained to begin with, so no more henna. While it may seem sad, that impermanence is part of henna's charm.

Marshall Brain's How Stuff Works site gives an excellent detailed bit of information about how your skin operates. This section explains what happens as your skin tans and burns. It doesn't relate directly to henna, but explains the process by which your skin works and how bad tanning is for you!

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Is Henna really a temporary tattoo?

Henna is not a tattoo, but it is temporary.

I may be a rare one on this, but I do not like to call Henna a temporary tattoo or even a tattoo. Those are something completely different. Henna is a much more personal experience than drawing on something that usually only lasts a couple of days. Temporary tattoos are, to me, frat boy experiences. Tattooing of the traditional nature is completely different as well and are themselves also more personal experiences than something temporary. Calling a henna design a tattoo is not only misleading, it is incorrect. A tattoo involves pigmenting the lower layers of skin. That pigmentation is (fairly) permanent. Tattoos have their purpose, henna has its purpose. No one would call a tattoo 'permanent henna' so the inverse should be equally not done. Henna has a fascinating, magnificient history behind it that connects you the minute you begin the art. I mean, historically henna was used to decorate the Goddess. It was used to invoke magic, it decorated courtesans, and it was even found on the hands of God. Now, do you think of Gods and Goddesses using temp tats (tattoos are a different story eh)? There is something a little bit casual in that. Henna is Henna. Simply stated.

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What does Henna look like?

Henna leaves a stain that can range from orange to red to burgundy to brown and with luck, near-black on the skin. It does not come in different colours such as blue, green, purple, et cetera.

Henna is not capable of stains other than the red, brown, orange, burgundy colour. With a lot of effort henna can go nearly black, but the colour is more of a really dark berry red/burgundy than black and it takes effort to do this! Wrapping, steaming, heat and essential oils and lengthy stain times are what it takes to get a near black stain. There is no such thing as "natural black henna". Besides, it is important to realise that natural does not equal safe and healthy. Poison Ivy is natural, aspirin is not.

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Is Henna safe?

Yes, Henna is safe.

There are people who could possibly be allergic to henna; anything in this world can be allergenic at any given time, and that can change; i.e. you can be fine with something one day, and allergic the next. That stated, henna allergy is very rare (from what I understand and have seen evidenced). Henna only stains the uppermost layer of the epidermis, thus there is no penetration to lower layers of skin, no possibility of injecting things into the skin and most fun of all, no pain. If anyone has had an allergic reaction, it would be most prudent to verify what indeed was applied to one's skin. Often times the allergic response is to the sometimes dastardly ingredients added to henna mix that are allergenic. This can range from GRAS (generally recognised as safe) essential oils to dangerous chemicals. The bottom line is that pure henna is safe. If you are prone to plant allergies, use common sense and do a patch test before proceeding to get a henna design.

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Where do I get Henna?

You can buy Henna online or at local grocery stores.

There are plenty of people who sell Henna online. I buy and use Yemeni henna from Castle Arts exclusively. I made errors in the past and used other hennas and have found the Yemeni to be, quite simply, the best hands down. (No pun intended!) I also get my henna quick and find the service impeccable. I never have to sift or strain the henna, am guaranteed lovely stains, and enjoy this henna so much that this is what I use to colour my hair. Try The Henna Page for a full listing of people who sell Henna. Alternatively, you can try local Indian, Pakistani or Arabic grocery stores. Not only can you find henna there, but really nice people who will be very helpful in finding you what you need and even introducing you to their own personal henna history. Not to mention the yummy fruits and veggies they have available fresh and the exotic foods you can pick up at far more reasonable prices than the regular grocery store. Plus, you'll be shopping and supporting local merchants. That's something we forget about in a wired world, but you should support your community- Shop Local!

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How do I use Henna?

Henna is very easy to use; here's how:

The first, simple step is to mix up your henna. This isn't hard and I bet you already know how. If not though, here are the details. No one can possibly provide a better explanation than Catherine Cartwright-Jones at the how to section of her website mehandi.

Pretend you are a cake decorator and carefully (artist or not, you have to get used to the flow of henna!) draw out patterns on your skin. You want the Henna to lay like a rope on your skin, don't try to hold the tip to your skin and draw, instead, drag the Henna right over your skin. Also, don't squeeze the bag with your fingers. Use your hand itself to control the flow of the henna, save your fingers for directing its fall. Here are some simple designs to start with. If you want practice, get some paper or envelopes; the henna makes a great decorating art! Once you are good (read: happy with your art!) you can decorate clothing with your henna art skills. Embellish your jeans, make your own pillow cushions, make wall art- the possibilities are absolutely endless!

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Does Henna work on dark skinned people?

Yes, Henna stains dark skin.

After all, Henna has a great tradition in Africa and India where darker skins are not uncommon. There are a few differences in process to understand. One thing to consider is that the contrast between dark on light and dark on dark is going to be different. But different is good, not bad! Just as makeup can be worn by darker skinned women (and men if it so pleases them!) so can Henna be worn by those with darker skin. Just like makeup, the colours look different. Having a good understanding of what Henna can and cannot do is very helpful in being able to Henna people of all shades. Henna has been used for thousands of years by people of all shades and an artist not understanding historical, cultural and artistic backgrounds is no excuse for someone saying that Henna doesn't show up on dark skinned people. [pictures soon] Catherine Cartwright Jones has an excellent article devoted to this very subject here. If someone tells you it won't work; find a new artist!

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Is there such a thing as Black Henna?

No! Henna is NOT black. You must be very careful about anyone proposing so-called 'black' henna to you.

Please note that most anything that goes black in a short time without a lot of effort (i.e. a "fast food" 30 minute henna application process) and lasts for a long time is (probably) NOT pure henna. It is most likely PPD, a lethal substance used in hairdye. (FDA approved use, but note the warnings on hair dye not to get the dye on your skin.) Don't believe me? Click here for a detailed PPD warning.

There are those who will tell you that PPD is not at all dangerous and any reaction is simply a mild allergic reaction, treated with antihistamines. Medical journals prove otherwise. There is a dermatologist given test to find out if someone has had a contact allergic reaction to henna. Find out how serious the test is. How serious can an allergy to Paraphenylenediamine be? People have died when PPD was involved. You may not show a reaction with one use. You may know people who've had "black" henna applied to them and suffered no consequences. That's because PPD doesn't affect everyone the same way. Do you really want to take a chance? Dismiss anyone who wants your money and is willing to compromise your (not to mention their own) health. Henna isn't about danger and chance. Do you still not believe it? Read the story of Krystle and find out what it did to her. Check out this case study of a man who had a reaction to pPD. Do you really want to chance it? Say NO to black "henna"!

Read Why Does My Head Itch?, a research article I wrote for the hennaforhair website about PPD. This article is targeted toward the use of PPD in hair dye, but closely ties it with henna for body art use. I hasten to note that PPD has never been found to be a cancer causing agent and indeed is shown to be quite safe when used at regulated levels. However, that said, the directions for hair colour are very stringent and, as a former regular hair colour user myself, I can attest (anecdotally) that they are not followed as stringently as they are written! When that is trickled down to 'if it's safe for my hair, it must be safe for my skin' mentality, you can only imagine the distortion that arises. The concept of 'safe' and 'government regulated levels' and 'don't get the dye on the scalp' fly out the window and are replaced with 'lookit my black temporary tattoo!' Please use common sense when mixing chemicals with your body and your health. Safety in one zone does not imply safety in another. And directions should always be followed closely.

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Ready for more detail, more chemistry and homework?

Carry on to the Advanced Guide.

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